June 20, 2005
Hampi! (now with captions)
I'm a little weary, but my skin has returned to normal -- no more puffing, itching or swelling. I'm now peeling like a Chiquita, due to overexposure to UV radiation. The hat and long sleeves protect me, but not entirely.
I'm writing this now from Bangalore -- we took a "luxury coach" here from Hospet last night after missing the overnight train. Compared to most modes of travel, a person could do worse than 10 hours in an air-con Volvo bus.
Luggage in our laps and underfoot, we made it here in cramped style earlier this morning.
But this entry isn't for kvetching about my disdain for bus travel.
This entry consists chiefly of photos, as words seem small and entirely insignificant when it comes to Hampi, India. I'd rather show than tell.
Except for the pic Liz snapped of Chandru, our tour guide (with her Treo, yet!), I captured these images with our mini-DV camera. Prepare your broadband connection -- and for your mind to be blown.
The temple elephant is well-cared for.
He's eating rice straw, by the way.
Put a coin in your palm, and offer it to the elephant. He takes it with his trunk, passes it to his handler, and then returns with the smooch!
Courtyard of Virupaksha Temple. Weddings are still performed in the smaller temple at rear left.
Visible for miles, the main gopuram at Virupaksha is almost 50 meters tall!
Detail of the figures above a smaller temple
Passage to the Manmatha Tank, a reservoir built to contain the drainage from the temple complex -- and keep it from flooding during monsoons.
Another angle on the gopuram
Chandru leads the way to the musical pillars of the Vittala Temple
This fresco portraying Shiva in 10 different poses dates back to the 16th century.
Another view of the fresco
Another scene depicting Virupaksha -- in granite
This drummer is part of a twice-daily procession at Virupaksha temple. We didn't get one of the incredible horn player.
Three carvings of Nandi, Shiva's vehicle
A rare, three-headed Nandi
Detailed carvings abound, many in excellent condition.
Another look at the stunning gopuram at the active end of the Hampi Bazaar
These chalk decorations are intricate, beautiful and temporary.
This gentleman sold me some water, and kept me entertained while his assistant ran out to get some change.
During the processions down the bazaar during festivals, this was the viewing stand for the nobles.
Just as it was 650 years ago, the Hampi bazaar is occupied by many families.
Looking west at the gopuram
Boulder formations behind the east end of the bazaar
A World Heritage site, many of the structures are getting much-needed TLC
These boulders were used to build the city -- and provide natural defenses
This monolithic nandi dates back to the 10th Century. For real.
Looking west at the bazaar from the Kodandarama temple.
Another view looking west.
Nature has a profound sense of whimsy.
Hanuman, the monkey god. He's quite the prankster.
I think this is the Achyutaraya temple, but I can't be sure. Granite pillars, topped by brick and mortar.
Do you see the temples carved into the boulders?
How to cut boulders: drill some notches and insert wooden pegs. They get wet, expand, and shear the rock according to your specs!
See how easy?
Kali, the destroyer. She's blood-red for a reason.
Walter's first bindi
Strangers in a strange land
Another bazaar for a ruined temple complex
Atop granite columns, detailed carvings abide in brick and mortar
Shiva, dancing and playing a flute
Photos don't reveal the grandeur. Go see Hampi for yourself.
Liz and I were simply awed.
All temples have guards by the door
They've lost their tusks, but still stand their posts.
Another arch, with people for scale
And again. These engineers knew exactly what they were doing.
If it hasn't fallen by now, it probably isn't going to.
The gopuram had to be tall enough so pilgrims could see it from far away -- and so inhabitants could see if any invaders were en route.
The King's Balance. There was once a scale here large enough to accommodate a man. The king would sit on one side, and the other was loaded with precious metals, gems and other riches. After which, the goodies were doled out to the neediest people. To think people complain about socialized medicine.
I think this is the Vittala temple.
Detail of carvings at Vittala
Garuda's stone chariot. At one point, the wheels actually turned.
The slender pillars are made of granite -- and produce different musical tones. They were staffed by musicians who'd pound them with wood sticks, and could be heard for miles.
Detail of carving at Vittala temple
A dancing statue decapitated by invaders, but restored by archeologists.
Detail of carving at Vittala.
Carvings depicting Hindu (foreground) and Muslim (rear) warriors
Lotus carved into Vittala temple ceiling.
There's that tricky monkey god again. Legend has it that someone was sick and sent him into the mountains to bring back healing herbs. He wasn't sure which herbs were which, so he brought back the entire mountain.
Lotus Mahal, inside the Zenana enclosure -- a leisure hall for the king and his queens. Not only is the building oriented to maximize ventilation, clay pipes carried water through the ducts -- 15th century air conditioning!
I love this shot. It's the same air-con leisure center. Note the blend of Islamic and Hindu architecture -- all in the name of keeping the peace.
Detail of archway of Lotus Mahal
Elephant stables -- again, note the melange of architectural styles.
View through doorways between stables
Chandru, our fantastic guide.